The Derby Cocktail family has two major branches: bourbon and gin. I suspect the two lines of development are a reflection of whether your horses are running in Kentucky or in England.
The hallmark of the gin branch of the family is the three-way flavor blend of gin, mint, and peach.
McElhone’s Gin and Bitters
The earliest version is just dumb bittered (and minted) gin, barely a cocktail at all. Harry McElhone first describes it in his 1927 Barflies and Cocktails, where he identifies it as a 1903 recipe provided by E. G. DeGastreaux of Cincinnati. It is the version Harry Craddock repeated in The Savoy Cocktail Book (1930):
- 2 oz Gordon Gin (Bombay Dry)
- 2 dashes Peach Bitters (Fee’s Peach Bitters)
- 1 sprig of fresh mint
Stir and strain into cocktail glass. Serve with olive.
Serve with olive? Really? I wasn’t going to think of that. (Savoy dispenses with garnish altogether.)
Fee Brothers appears to be the only commercial source of peach bitters in the American market. It’s a sweet, simple mix, with a very fruity, peachy nose, an initial impression of peaches and sugar, and a lingering flavor of almonds. Far from bitter, the effect in this drink is an overall impression of sweetness. As a result, you’ll want to drink this Derby while it is really, really cold, lest the bitters overpower the other flavors and the almond peachiness becomes cloying.
The bottom line: this is not a very good version of the Derby. It’s just sullied gin, utterly lacking character, with nothing to redeem it. I won’t do that again.
DeGroff’s fresh peach Derby
Fortunately, there are a couple ways to dress this idea up into a respectable, flavorful drink. Dale DeGroff does it with fresh peaches (The Craft of the Cocktail, 2002):
- ½ peach, quartered
- several fresh mint leaves
- ¼ oz peach bitters or Marie Brizard peach liqueur
- 2½ oz gin
In a mixing glass, muddle the peach, mint, and peach bitters. Add the gin and ice; shake well and strain into a small martini glass. Garnish with sprig of fresh mint.
As you might suspect, DeGroff’s version is very fruit-forward, with the fresh peach overrunning all other flavors and rendering the gin nearly invisible. It depends, I suppose on the type and quality of peaches used, but I found the drink to be better balanced with half as much fruit. I didn’t have peach liqueur at hand, so I went with peach bitters, with considerable reservation after my experience with McElhone’s recipe. I cut way back from that quarter ounce, and I think it improved the flavor.
The aggressive peach flavor absorbes a considerable amount of mint. (My recommendation on the mint is to handle it fairly lightly; I’d leave it out of the muddle altogether, and add it very late to the shake, so you don’t just end up with green shreds and mush. I agree with Erik Ellestad at Savoy Stomp, who recommends that mint drinks like this might benefit from “rolling” from glass to glass, instead of hard shaking with ice, to avoid the extensive breakage and consequent bitterness from the greens.)
The winner—Embury’s Gin and Peach Brandy Derby
This brings us to my favorite of the Derby Derby, a modification of the recipe suggested by David Embury in his Fine Art of Mixing Drinks (1948). Embury brings a more sophisticated mix to the party, with a combination of peach brandy, dry gin, syrup, and mint. The idea of adding sugar instead of bitters or liqueur led to an experiment replacing London Dry gin with the typically sweeter genever:
Derived from Embury, The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks (1958)
- 1 oz. Lheraud Peach Cognac
- 3 oz. Boomsma Oude Genever
- ½–1 tsp of syrup
- sprig of mint, crushed
Stir or roll with ice; double strain into a well-chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with mint.
The complexities of the aged genever and the peach cognac raise this version above the others. The flavors are rounder and denser. And you don’t have to wait for peach season to make this one. In Minnesota, that counts for a lot.
Outliers: There are various versions of the Derby that don’t fit into the two main families. They range from really boring ideas like Peychaud-bittered gin to a much more interesting second listing from Embury, a cognac-based cocktail with bitters, curaçao, and pineapple syrup, topped with champagne.
And Frederic Yarm recently published a variant called the “French Derby,” mixed by Scott Holliday at Rendezvous, in Boston. It’s a gin-based variation that substitutes pear liqueur for peach.
“The Derby Cocktail, gin and peaches” at cold-glass.com : All text and photos copyright © 2011 Douglas M. Ford. All rights reserved.